Saturday, October 9, 2010

Mammoth Hot Springs and Bison Jams Yellowstone, WY

Miles Driven:  64.8 - September 14th Mammoth Hot Springs to Madison, WY Yellowstone National Park, WY to Craters of the Moon, ID
Total Miles: 2967.6
Entrance Fees: $0
Camping Fees: $0

Another cold night in the car.  Getting up very early in Mammoth Hot Springs I decided to walk around the springs before I did the visitor center thing.  The self guided walking tour lasts about two hours.  For hundreds of years Shoshone and Bannock people collected minerals from Mammoth Hot Springs for white paint.  The minerals contribute to the beautiful terrace structures, together with heat, a natural plumbing system, water and limestone.   A network of fractures and fissures form the plumbing system, which allows hot water from underground to reach the surface.  Hot water with dissolved carbon dioxide makes a solution of weak carbonic acid.  As this weak solution rises through rock, it dissolves calcium carbonate, the primary compound in limestone.  At the surface, the calcium carbonate is deposited in the form of travertine, the rock that forms the terraces of Mammoth Hot Springs.

Minerva Terrace, Mammoth Hot Springs Yellow Stone, WY
Each part of the Mammoth Hot Springs area has its own name starting with the terraces of Opal, Minerva, Jupiter and Mound.  Jupiter terrace stopped flowing in 1987.  The only flowing terrace at present is Palette Spring.  You can see the changing colors of orange and brown as the water cascades down the terraces.
Palette Springs Mammoth Hot Springs Yellowstone, WY

Palette Spring Mammoth Hot Springs Yellowstone, WY

You can also see a dormant hot spring called the ‘Liberty Cap’.  Its internal pressure was sufficient to raise the water to a great height, allowing mineral deposits to build slowly and continuously for hundreds of years.  Devil’s thump is an active hot spring, much smaller than liberty cap.

Liberty Cap Mammoth Hot Springs Yellowstone, WY
Heading back to the Mammoth Village visitor center after walking around the springs I watched the movie.  It was after noon by the time the movie was over and I needed to be on the road.  Having spent two nights and  almost three days in the park was not nearly enough time to see everything, but the west coast was calling and I had other places to see before I reached the coast.

I put my next destination into Penelope (GPS) and she wanted me to drive around a mountain, which would have added another 150 miles to my already long trip.  I consulted the Yellowstone map and made my own way out of the park via the west entrance (exit), which happened to be in Montana.  Thinking of the figure of eight again, Mammoth Hot Springs in on left corner of the top circle.  All I needed to do was drive down the left side of the circle to where the two circles of the figure of eight meet and drive out west (left).  Driving took longer than expected due to the bison jam, but it was worth the wait.

Bison Jam Yellowstone, WY

Sunday, October 3, 2010

Old Faithful was Faithful as usual Yellowstone, WY

Miles Driven: 81.5 September 13th Fishing Village to Old Faithful to Mammoth Hot Springs, WY Yellowstone National Park, WY
Total Miles: 2928.8
Camping Fees: $0

Yes, it was very, very, very COLD all through the night and into the following morning my first night in Yellowstone.  Even though I was awake before the sun rose I stayed in my sleeping bag until the temperature had risen.  The visitor center was just across the road and was about to open.  I chatted with the park rangers and asked what time “old faithful” was due to go off.

What you need to know about Yellowstone is how big the park is in acreage, just over 2 million acres.  So getting from one visitor center to another takes a least an hour and that is without stopping or any traffic on the roads.  To describe the road system in the park, think of a figure of eight.  I entered via the east entrance (6951 feet elevation) just about half way down the second circle of the figure of eight.  Old Faithful is on the west side of that same circle about 61 miles away.  And of course there were oodles of sites to see in-between.  12:18pm was the time I was aiming for, which give me about three hours to site see along the way and get through the construction on the roads.  Finding a nice spot to eat breakfast was not that hard.  I drove over Fishing Bridge and sat on the grass next to Yellowstone Lake where the sun was getting higher and higher.  (If you look closely, just below the tree line on the right side is a buffalo (bison))  

Yellowstone Lake at Fishing Village, Yellowstone NP, WY
Yellowstone NP, WY
Arriving at Old Faithful Visitor Center about 11:30am allowed me time to peruse the stores and read all the information on Old Faithful.  Old Faithful is one five geysers predicted by the park rangers and is located in the Upper Geyser basin along the Firehole River.  Only four other locations in the world have large concentrations of hydrothermal features - Russia (Kamchatka), Chile, New Zealand and Iceland.  Yellowstone has ample evidence of volcanic geology and magma provides the first ingredient for thermal features.  HEAT.  Rain and snow provide the second.  WATER.  Water seeps down several thousand feet below the surface where it is heated.  Underground cracks form the third ingredient: NATURAL PLUMBING SYSTEM.  Hot water rises through the plumping system and to produce springs and geysers.

Finding a good stop after reading up on Old Faithful was tricky.  Seeing that all the seats were taken I sat on the ground in front of the wooden benches. There were hundreds of people sitting and standing around waiting for old faithful to blow.  I mentioned to the people sitting next to me “I have never seen so many people be so patience in my life“.  The crowd was relatively quiet in anticipation.  Something you do not see on a regular basis.

Old Faithful had some performance anxiety and some ‘pre flow’ before the big show.  Old Faithful was due to go off at 12:18pm but can go anytime within 10 minutes of that time.  At 12:20:42pm the real show started just as the sun went behind the clouds.  Old Faithful eruptions last anywhere from 11/2 to 5 minutes and are about 90 minutes apart varying from 51 to 120 minutes.  3,700 to 8,400 gallons of boiling water reach heights of 106 to 184 feet.  The show I was watching lasted 2 minutes.  I can now check that off my list.
12:20:40pm Old Faithful Blow Yellowstone, WY

Having seen the eruption I headed to my car where I wrote a bunch of post cards for an hour or so.  Old Faithful is located in the Upper geyser basin.  As you travel north you go through Midway and Lower geyser basins.  Think of the figure of eight, Old Faithful would be on the lower left corner of the lower circle and as you move up the left side of the lower circle midway would be in the middle and lower geyser basin would be close to the top.


Shell Spring, Biscuit Basin Yellowstone, WY












Avoca Spring Biscuit Basin Yellowstone, WY


Excelsior Geyser, Midway Basin Yellowstone, WY

Just before you enter the midway basin region you travel through biscuit basin.  This area has a tremendous amount of springs and mud pools each having their own names such as shell pool, avoca spring,  sapphire  pool, and black opal spring  And each one of these pools or springs was unique.

Having driven further up the road I was now in midway geyser basin where Grand Prismatic Spring is located.   But first you pass turquoise pool, excelsior geyser and then opal pools.  These were bigger than the biscuit basin springs and pools.

Grand Prismatic Spring Midway Geyser Basin Yellowstone, WY
On the road again I was headed toward Canyon Village.  On route I encounter a bison just strolling in the middle of the road minding its own business.  This was a reminder to keep to the speed limit of 45mph or less.  The newspaper given to everyone who enters the park states that about 100 animals including bear, elk, deer, wolves and bison are killed each year due to speeding drivers.  I did not what to add to that number.


Bison (buffalo) on road to Canyon Village Yellowstone, WY

If you think of the figure of eight, Canyon village would be on the right hand lower side of the upper circle, 40 odd miles away from the geyser basin regions.  The scenery starts to change as you travel around this area.  Gone are the springs and pools, enter cliffs and large prairie fields where I spotted another bison.

Changing Scenery on route to Canyon Village Yellowstone, WY
Canyon village is named for the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone river.  The canyon is 20 miles in length, over 1,000 feet deep, 1,500 - 4,000 in width (depending on where you are located), 109 feet of height in upper falls and 308 feet of height in the lower falls.  Just getting down to the brink of the lower falls trail you descent on a steep trail that drops 600 feet.  Before you start to head down the trail there are warnings NOT RECOMMENDED FOR THOSE WITH HEART, LUNG, OR OTHER HEALTH CONDITIONS.  The hike down was fine, but boy oh boy getting back up was a major effort, but well worth the effort.

Grand Canyon at Yellowstone River Yellowstone, WY

You can drive the north rim and stop at many points to take photographs, which I did ending at inspiration point.

Looking back at the Canyon from Lookout Point Yellowstone, WY
The sun was setting and I needed to be at Mammoth Hot Springs Visitor center for a camp site, which was another 40 odd miles away.  Plus I did not want to drive in the dark again especially with all the wild life roaming around at dusk.   And low and behold what should I see around a bend but a bison.  Further down the road I almost hit a wolf and elk were running across the road.  Neither of these could I catch with the camera.  But I did see them none the less.

Getting to the camp site at Mammoth Hot Springs in the dark, I missed the last spot by 15 minutes.  Blame it on the wild life.  So I found a nice quite place to park close to the visitor center.  Another cold night was on tap.    

A Long Day's Drive to Yellowstone National Park, WY

Miles Driven: 485.0 - September 12th Sundance, WY to Yellowstone National Park, WY
Total Miles: 2847.3
Entrance Fees: $25 (covered by America the Beautiful Pass)
Camping Fees: $0

The nights are getting colder the further north west I travel and Sundance, WY was no exception with a low around 51 degrees.  Could not seem to get warm and kept waking up.  The sun was up early and so was I with it.  I spent some time repacking my car.  Another long day of driving was in store on route to Yellowstone National Park, WY.

Just off I90W Buffalo, WY

I traveled I90 for several hours until I was in Buffalo, WY where Penelope (GPS) instructed me to take US16.  Now that I was off the interstate I could easily stop and take some photographs.  The photograph below is of the snow capped mountains I was headed towards.

Ten Sleep Canyon, WY
I drove through Ten Sleep Canyon where there is a monument for an English nobleman by the name of Gilbert E. Leigh.  Leigh was a lifelong big game hunter and outdoor enthusiast.  He went missing in the fall of 1884 during a hunting expedition.  Unfortunately, after a week long search his body was found 100 feet below the canyon wall where he had fallen pursuing mountain sheep.  The monument is laid up of native stone in dry mortar and is approximately ten feet square at the base and contains a marble slab with an inscription memorializing Leigh who was buried in Stoneleigh, England.

Driving through Meeteetse, WY around 7:30pm as the sun was beginning to set I saw some amazing colors so I stopped and snapped some photographs.  The blue and pink are a great combination over the empty road I am traveling alone.
Greybull HWY, Meeteetse, WY

If you are traveling to Yellowstone from the east, as I was you must drive through the town of Cody, WY.  As I was rounding a corner the moon was rising over a lake and I stopped to snap a photograph.




Moon Over Lake in Cody, WY
By the time I entered Yellowstone National park it was dark, very dark.  I know I missed loads of scenery on my way to the Fishing Village Visitor Center, which was yet another 25 miles ahead of me from the entrance on very tight and windy roads.  Could not be helped due to the time I arrived.

Pulling up to the camp grounds in Fishing Village and reading the rules for camping I found there was no canvas tents allowed due to bears being sighted in the area.  Not given any choice I had to spent the night in the car in the parking lot across the road from the visitor center.  The temperature was dropping rapidly as I was setting up my car for sleeping.  By the time I had finished the temperature was 45 degrees and I had a feeling it was going to get colder.  Sleep could not come quick enough as I curled up like a cocoon in my sleeping bag ready to explore Yellowstone in the light of day.